Borgogno : Liste Riserva 2019

One of three single-vineyard Borgogno wines being released solely through négociants on the Place. Situated in the Liste cru, north of the Cannubi area, the vineyard's higher altitude and cooler microclimate gives an expressive aromatic spectrum with wild strawberries and toasted herbs on the nose. It smells fragrant and expressive. White chocolate, sour cherries and violets. Round and filling, this has gorgeously pure fruit - red berries with mouthwatering acidity, almost a sharp zingy element to the fruit, sherbet-like, with plentiful but fine tannins giving a really massy mouthful but so charming and delicious. Like a big hug. Ends salty and stony. Lifted and bright yet still with layers of flavour and texture. It needs longer to settle no doubt but this is glorious. Just 3,000 bottles being released from the estate bought in 2008 by Andrea Farinetti and the Farinetti family, who are also behind the Eataly empire.

The 2019 Barolo Riserva Liste has a more rustic and deeper aromatic profile initially before revealing higher-toned notes of orange peel, cranberries, and fresh spices. The palate has a similarly wound tension and a linear feel, with vibrant energy and a long, persistent finish. A lovely wine and just as good as the Cannubi, it has long aging potential. Drink 2025-2045.

Old school beauty in Barolo, this is made to sink into, with melted sandalwood and cedar-infused tannins, lovely juicy, redcurrant, leather and roses, savoury, food friendly, with lift through the finish. These wines have a good reason for being on the Place de Bordeaux - not only is this an iconic label, but these three single vineyards Riservas are only released through négociants (just 3,000 bottles of each). Held back at the estate and now ready to go. Simone Borsari winemaker.