Armand de Brignac : Brut Gold

By far the most voluminous of an admittedly modest range, quantity wise, this golden flagship is a blend of 2012, 2013 and 2014, relatively recently disgorged and dosed at 9 g/l, the liqueur de tirage the only component which has been oak aged. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir share the honours, the balance of 20% made up by Pinot Meunier. Beyond the green gold hue and persistent mousse there is an impressive vanillin richness, hints of acacia and buttered toast; ripe semi-tropical fruit is grounded by soft chalk, powdery yet discrete. The finish needs a little more time to settle; there is energy, which will soften, and power which will underwrite an impressive development over the next couple of years.

Light gold. Musky orchard and pit fruit aromas are brightened by hints of lemon zest and ginger. Ripe pear and honey flavors show a touch of heat and pick up a toasty quality with aeration. Finishes soft, warm and slightly loose, with a hint of bitter peach pit, echoing toastiness and decent length. This bottling actually impressed me a few years ago but that wasn't the case this go-round.

Tasted out of magnum, the bright silver/straw-colored NV Champagne Gold Brut is a blend of roughly half Pinot Noir, with 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. Fresh and inviting, the nose is springy with aromas of white peach, dewy wet stone, cherry blossom, and bread dough. Medium-bodied and juicy, with a fine mousse and a sweet, citrus-inflected finish, this versatile Champagne would be perfect as an aperitif or for an end-of-night toast. Drink 2024-2030.

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, this ripe, well-balanced wine has some toast that adds complexity and richness to the apple and lemon fruit, indicating a mature bottling. The wine in a gold-foil bottle is one of five made by the Cattier house for rapper and entrepreneur Jay Z's Armand de Brignac Empire brand with the “Ace of Spades” logo.

The NV Brut Gold is fleshy and expressive and opens in the glass with aromas of Anjou pear, dried apricot, yellow apple and buttery pastry, complemented by hints of almond paste. Medium- to full-bodied, flavorful and giving, it possesses a sweet core of fruit that's underpinned by succulent yet vibrant acidity. Soundly made and harmonious, it is a decidedly stronger effort than the house's latest Blanc de Blancs. It was disgorged with a dosage of nine grams per liter.