Dom Pérignon : Vintage 2002

Going large now, this is methuselah number 40 out of 200, and it certainly looks the part. 2002 ranks alongside 2008 when it comes to the best vintages of the decade, but in this large format it's still closed and a little reserved. 2002 juxtaposes restraint and latent generosity above all - a wonderful enigma in every way. Ironically it was well-timed rainfall at the end of August, and a little thereafter, which sealed the deal with this vintage. Geoffroy describes this as 'Montrachet with a little added CO2'.

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The Nose was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had never tasted anything like it. Two thousand-two was a year marked by extreme ripeness in the Chardonnays, and that opulence has always been a big part of the wine's profile. Today, what strikes me most about the 2002 is its timelessness. That youthful opulence remains, yet the 2002 is still vibrant, almost shocking in its freshness. Apricot, ripe peach, tangerine oil, butter and dried flowers all build towards a captivating crescendo of aromas and flavors that saturates the finish. Readers can look forward to another two decades of exceptional drinking.