M. Chapoutier : De l'Orée 2018

This is creamy-edged, but with a racy spine, brightness and energy, showing floral lift amid a mix of white peach, white nectarine and mango flavors. The long finish is threaded with chamomile and verbena notes. Drink now through 2035. 52 cases imported.

A superb, harmonious, textured and layered Ermitage blanc. On the nose it shows notes of bergamot, dried orange peel, mild spices, raw almonds and hints of quince peel. It’s medium-bodied, yet it has so much volume on the palate. Seductive with a caressing texture. Wisely oily, yet it remains aerial, agile and lively. There is minerality here, with a vertical dimension at the center bringing vitality to the coating palate. Enveloping and irresistible. Subtle, lingering finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

100% Marsanne. Tank sample. Riper fruit than their Méal, fleshing out the palate and giving a more balanced, satisfying impression of flavour. Well-integrated dairy character and a decent dash of freshness that probably comes more from a saline/herbal flavour than acidity itself. Statuesque. (RH)

Brilliant straw-gold. Powerful, mineral-accented orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by lemon curd, iodine and pungent floral accents. Intense, palate-staining pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors show superb concentration. Definition and a sexy floral nuance build through the mid-palate. Opens up steadily on an extremely long, floral-tinged finish that emphatically echoes the pit fruit and mineral notes.

While this is lush and intense, reminiscent of roasted cashews drizzled with runny honey, it's still less fatty and opulent than Le Méal from the same year. Here the bitterness of Marsanne comes through after a salty, mineral wave that surges against its muscley, boney frame.