Penfolds : Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023

Having had the privilege of tasting many vintages of this wine back to 1964, this is, given time, a superb wine. The inclusion of American oak helps to protect the fruit sweetness over time—I don't know the science of that, however it holds true anecdotally. Here, through the prism of the 2023 vintage, the wine is fresh and yet ripe, and the cool season has taken some of the weight from the bottom register. It was sourced from McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Barossa Valley and matured for 18 months in American oak hogsheads. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

A stunning red, with a dense, generous and rich mix of dark chocolate–covered maraschino cherry, Dutched cocoa powder and toasted cumin seed. Green peppercorn, graphite, dried lavender and blackberry preserves are generous but show restraint on the finish, suggesting a good candidate for cellaring — though this is certainly impressive now. Drink now through 2040. 24 cases imported.

‘Coonawarra in 2023 had a bit of a rough patch for Cabernet,’ notes chief winemaker Peter Gago. Consequently none was deemed up to the standard required for Bin 707 (and indeed, no Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet was made in 2023 either). So this iteration of Penfolds’ top-tier multi-region Cab is 68% McLaren Vale, 18% Padthaway and 14% Barossa Valley, maturing (like Grange) in 100% new American oak hogsheads for 18 months. The oak is quite prominent at the moment, giving a glossy coconut sheen to this always imposing wine, but this muscular frame, plus firm, chalky, tannins and a vibrant vein of acidity will ensure a long life. Dark chocolate-coated red cherries lead the flavour charge, alongside boysenberries and cassis, along with an exotic savoury twist of tapenade, tarmac, biltong, incense, roasted hazelnuts, eucalypt – endlessly complex and long. Released at £450.

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 is poised and precise, with layers of blackcurrant, mahogany and Chesterfield leather. Its new oak influence is strong yet in tune. This is more refined and approachable at this young age than usual, with bright acidity and sinewy tannins providing a strong base that delivers a long, sustained, fine finish.