Schloss Johannisberg : Riesling Grünlack Spätlese 2022

Unctuous and plump, with fleshy peach skin and mango underscored by stony minerality. Fluid and open in feel, with a creamy texture hemmed in by a steely spine of flint. Acidity holds a firm grip, and the smoky finish is taut and firm. Serious and delicious. Drink now through 2040. 2,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.

The nose of this Spatlese makes me think of 18th century engravings of pear and white peach varieties, but that only hints at the enveloping and astonishingly fine fruit that follows on the palate. A masterpiece of finesse, precision and balance, but even that doesn’t say the most important thing, which is the breathtaking leafy freshness and stony clarity at the stunningly long finish. When will it ever stop? From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Riesling Schloss Johannisberg Grünlack Spätlese was harvested at the bottom of the slope with excellent water availability and without any botrytis at all. Bright tangerine and lemon citrus notes make the mouth water before even taking the first sip. More air adds faint notes of passion fruit foliage and then veers back to Navel orange peel. The palate is slender, brimming with sweet citrus, exploding into aromas combining tangerine peel and juice with riper and more tart notions of apricot, peach, lemon and kumquat. Purity, luminosity and lightness are vivid and exquisite here. Lovely balance, vivid freshness, lightness and depth are combined with bravura. There's 8.9g/L acidity and 76g/L residual sweetness, a lovely high-wire act. (Sweet)