Bollinger : RD Récemment Dégorgé 2002

Big names do not help if you are not familiar with a certain house style, and so I can understand everyone who dislikes Bollinger's 2002 R.D. Extra Brut, which at first sight shows a matured if not old wine with toffee, floral (hyacinths, narcissus, sage), vegetal and spicy aromas (oak, cannabis, frankincense, black bread) — but almost no fruit (at least no fresh fruit). Disgorged in March 2014, this wine just needs a lot of time in the glass to develop its complexity. On the palate, this is a very pure, fresh, lively, firmly structured and almost ascetic wine with complexity but almost no sensuality. Very distinctive style.

A fine example of power married to elegance, this is impeccably balanced, with a mouthwatering palate of crème de cassis, toasted brioche, fleur de sel and crystallized honey flavors. The rich, smoky underpinning is carried on a finely detailed bead. Disgorged March 2014. Drink now through 2030. 200 cases imported.

At this stage in the lunch, my notes were getting rather sparse, but there was an initial mushroom aroma on the nose, before it became much fresher and tighter on the palate, especially with the Comté cheese. (JH)

(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; about 4 g/l dosage; disgorged on October 22, 2013): Light gold. Powerful, mineral-laced scents of orange zest, pear skin, iodine and chamomile, with a hint of anise in the background. On the palate, vibrant orchard and citrus fruit flavors unfurl slowly, picking up toasty lees and mace nuances that build on the back half. Sappy, tightly focused and stony, finishing with excellent thrust and building florality. This is showing an extremely youthful profile for its age and while I know that the received wisdom is that R.D. wines should be drunk soon after release, I'd let this one get some more years on it.

Light golden yellow, silver shimmers, fine persistent mousse. Fragrant nutty nuances with honey undertones, savoury notes underpinned by red-berry hints, prunes and a dash of woody aromas. After air contact, mineral accents emerge. On the palate, tension and traction, minerality conveying great finesse, hints of dried apricots, some nougat, brioche offering enormous length with depth. Chalky terroir notes on the finish, already perfectly gluggable.

Certainly one of the most masterfully accomplished expressions of the Bollinger style: silky, racy length, ultra-fine bubbles, saline depth with delicate aromatics, intensity and elegance. Sumptuous.

How can one remain unmoved by the majestic RD 2002, still intense, flavorful, and incredibly persistent!