René Gabriel
55% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot. Very dark, dense purple-violet with purple highlights. Delicate bouquet, highly refined, medium intensity, blue cherries, lilac notes; hard to approach as it reveals little of its depth yet. On the palate, very, very elegant, superbly balanced, entirely built on finesse, coming across like a dancing Chambertin through to the long finish. Not a competition Ausone, perhaps one that will be almost too discreet in its early years and then, in 10 years, will grow into a slim, classic, truly Premier Cru. And then add more. (18/20). 12: Clearly brightening, a lot of ruby. Many roasted notes, light caramel; a small pinch of unripe grapes masked as red bell pepper, with floral tones as well. On the palate, plenty of sweetness, also tart morello cherry notes showing an acidity not quite integrated. What remains of this wine if you take away the somewhat opulent barriques? Probably still a lot, but somehow too little to justify the market price. Even great terroirs suffer in lean meteorological conditions. Now one point lower than at the en primeur tasting. (18/20). 16: For a wine of this vintage, extremely dark. Purple-garnet, rich core. The bouquet smells of ripe black plums, serious tobacco notes, also revealing a fine slightly green spice, with a delicate hint of caramel hovering above. On the palate, on one hand offering terrific aromatics, on the other showing a matured body shape. Perhaps this is an early Ausone, best drunk in its full fruit phase. And that seems to be exactly today. The fun factor is enormous.