René Gabriel
02: Barrel sample (17/20): Gorgeous, fragrant cherry bouquet with a hint of refreshing lemon balm, candied fruits, fruit tea, cassis, almond and marzipan notes. On the palate it feels slim yet muscular, but with relatively little flesh; a floral finish with firm, slightly too foregrounded tannins, conciliatory mocha on the finish. Overall lots of breed and power, but a bit short on fat. Once again a rather disappointing Cos that surely won’t be a bargain for its wine friends price-wise. Similar to the ’94, which showed comparable parallels at the en primeur tasting. 04: Noticeably lighter color than 2002 and 2003; brightening ruby with a relatively broad watery rim. Fragrant, peppery bouquet, red currants, backed by coffee notes and cedar wood, beautiful notes reminiscent of exotic spices (especially cloves), yet it remains rather slim at the outset. Fine, elegant palate, the tannins feel polished and already make the wine delicate and refined; a slightly underripe skin note lingers on the finish, medium length. (17/20). 06: Medium-dark ruby-purple. Intense, heady bouquet, wild cherries, coffee, cloves, a slightly green Cabernet touch; actually quite slim but fairly deep. Aromatic palate, medium build, black peppercorns, plum skins, a bit roughened by its concentration; it may gain another point and will then go down as a rather classic, long-lived Cos. 08: Drunk at lunch at Cos. Already shows as a seductive charmer with a soft texture and plummy sweetness. In the meantime, Jean-Guillaume also somehow admits that this Cos does come from a great vintage, but isn’t quite as successful. 09: Dark garnet with a violet sheen. Spicy bouquet, ground black pepper, dark fine woods, multi-layered. Firm palate, slightly mealy body, balanced astringency, comes across a bit rough, thus lacking some harmony for its expected class. At the Wine & Dine in Bad Ragaz: boring and somehow already in early maturity. 10: Needs a good half hour of air and then becomes quite fine and pleasant. Fairly grand, fine St-Estèphe—but not a great Cos. (17/20). 20: Dark color still with a violet sheen. The bouquet is on the one hand floral, on the other showing dark-roasted mocha notes, black olives, turpentine, pumpernickel bread and Californian prunes. On the palate it shows dark aromatics, long finish. I had underrated it in recent years and am upgrading it now. Right at its pleasure peak. Immensely enjoyable! (18/20). 20: Medium wine-red with purple highlights, markedly brightening rim. Open bouquet, showing a certain sweetness of red cherry compote and a hint of Amarena. On the second pass, a lactic tendency with a touch of café au lait. The nose is denser and more intense than the 2000 vintage. On the palate, quite substantial. The fleshy-grainy extract shows a gentle bitterness from the extraction. An appealing 2001 that is now at the right drinking maturity. Tastes better than a few years ago. (18/20). 21: It was the darkest wine of this quintet. Deep purple with the last lilac highlights in the center. The bouquet shows, on one hand, almost primary fruit notes of cherries and plums, and on the other floral traces from Cabernet batches that were not fully ripe. It comes across as complex with slight lactic tendencies in the form of blackberry yogurt. On the second pass; very spicy, clove buds, rosemary and freshly roasted Arabica mocha. On the palate, quite deep, still present tannins, which could also stem from a possibly quite generous extraction. This assumption is underlined by a still present, noble bitterness toward the finish. The nose rating is practically 19/20. The palate then relativizes the score to a fair average of 18/20.