Château de Beaucastel 2017

A dark and winey style, offering a mix of plum, blackcurrant and black cherry notes, infused with black tea, fruitcake and anise accents. Solidly built, vibrant and energetic from start to finish, this carries copious fruit easily through the lengthy finish. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Best from 2020 to 2040. 3,500 cases imported.

There's richness and amplitude to the forest berry fruits, blackberry, raspberry, blackcurrant bush. Amplitude on the palate too, this is very generous, mouthfilling, with enough acidity to meet the alcohol, which doesn't feel excessive. Tannins are much more rounded and buffed compared to the Coudoulet. There's a good sense of freshness, it feels quite dynamic on the palate for such a concentrated, structured vintage of Beaucastel; the Mourvèdre really makes itself known. Very good, but still very young; I would hold until 2027 before opening, though there's certainly pleasure to be had now. 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Counoise, 15% Vaccarèse, Terret Noir, Muscardin, Clairette, Picpoul Blanc, Picardan, Bourboulenc, Roussanne and Cinsault. Grenache and Cinsault fermented in cement, Syrah and Mourvèdre fermented in foudre.

Cask sample. Rich, succulent black fruit with wonderful clarity and effortless depth. A real masterclass of the appellation, with meaty complexity on the palate as well as persistent fragrant spices. Spot-on balance to finish, even though the tannins are still very brash and furry. Certainly needs age, and should be a really wonderful investment. (RH)

Saturated ruby. Displays aromas of ripe, spice-tinged blueberry, cherry and blackberry, along with building suggestions of game, potpourri and sandalwood. Offers concentrated black and blue fruits, exotic spice, liquorice and floral pastille flavours that show unlikely energy for their heft. Dusty tannins build through a very long, smoky finish that strongly echoes the dark berry and floral notes.

Spicy, meaty, earthy, rich and lushly textured, the wine has depth of flavour, complexity and lift. The wine is balanced and concentrated, and the fruit shows ripeness with a lift that works. The spicy essence of red fruits is on the nose and in the deep, dark, spicy red fruits on the palate and finish. The wine is a blend of 40% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache and 20% Syrah, with the remainder of the blend coming from all the other red and white grape varieties.

The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape is another sunny, beautifully Provençal effort that has a huge nose of garrigue, raw steak, leather, truffle, and peppery spice. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and balanced, it's not a massive Beaucastel yet it has a classic, Provençal, incredibly satisfying style that will benefit from 4-6 years of bottle age and keep for two decades.

The nose is open, with precise fruit. Overall, it is juicy; for now, black fruits and spices monopolise the discussion. The wine retains a welcome freshness that channels its volume and power. The fruit is fleshy.