René Gabriel
It starts with the typical GPL ailment, I noted back in 1991; namely a musty note that stubbornly lingers for a full 30 minutes. Meaty aromas on the nose, bouillon paste. On the palate, a biting sting on the tip of the tongue, leathery, dry. Best decanted an hour beforehand. Recently, a few bottles have been severely drying. 03: Quite a dark wine red with a brick-red rim. The nose begins very terroir-driven: autumn trumpets, wet tree bark, then it becomes denser and also a bit more fruity. On the palate, an elevated Cabernet shows itself, able to shake off a certain 1983 dryness with exposure to air, and then it finishes with a touch of cassis and, above all, dark chocolate. (17/20). 09: At a dinner at Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Rather light colour, brick-red rim. Peppery bouquet, raisined fruit notes yet showing more of a “dry sweetness”. On the palate, a pronounced, even piquant extract—broad but flat—held together by acidity, tannins and now also fine metallic notes. Past its best. 17: Lightening, brownish colour. The nose shows an oxidative profile: Málaga, lovage, old leather. I set it aside rather dismissively because it simply came across as overripe. On the palate it still showed a minimal tendency to give pleasure, with Málaga-like contours and aromas of an old military knapsack. With beef tongue in Madeira sauce it would most likely still be quite drinkable—provided you use half the bottle for the sauce. Based on earlier experiences with this wine, “this thing” is unfortunately over and done with.