René Gabriel
03: 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.5% Merlot, 3.5% Cabernet Franc. More than half of the harvest downgraded: very deep, dense garnet with purple and black highlights. Delicate, subtle, finely layered bouquet, not as bombastic as Mouton, not as deep as Latour, yet already showing feminine, highly refined contours on the nose, notes of rock candy, Darjeeling tea, vanilla pod and discreetly sweet noble wood. On the palate, one of the very best, finest wines of the vintage; the tannins are silky, yet the aromatics are extremely profound, ranging from blackberry to truffle; again bourbon and vanilla notes, dried walnuts, tobacco and currants in the long, majestic finish. A Lafite that may one day resemble its own 1985 in an even more perfect form. (19/20). 06: With René Schmidlin in Javea (Spain). Profound, dark-berried, rosewood, smoke, tar; still far too young and yet – at least for now – already a dream. Based on this impression, I immediately bought a few more large-format bottles. (19/20). 11: Dark garnet, ruby rim. Discreetly milky bouquet, wonderfully sweet with ripe red plums, sandalwood and cassis. Velvety palate with very pleasant, almost plush-like tannins; still slightly front-loaded, but that also points to the remarkable potential for a 2002 (rather modest vintage…). (18/20). 12: Very dark, strikingly deep color, no signs of maturity yet. The nose is currently very discreet: fine woods, coffee, red cassis; needs plenty of air; noble, ripe Cabernet accents and a hint of lemon thyme that delicately refreshes the aromatic profile. Firm, compact palate, showing plenty of flesh and fine-grained tannins, which do suit a Premier but (still) not quite this vintage; the astringency demands a lot more patience. So definitely not a 2002 gastro variant.