Château Léoville Las Cases 2009

Built around Cabernet Sauvignon (76%), the 2009 shows a full-bodied, focused profile, with a very imposing tannic structure, majestic fruit and well-judged acidity.

We apparently didn’t quite trust our own enthusiasm, because after an enthusiastic comment – classic, balanced, a splendid blend of delicacy and power – we followed up with a miserly 18 points. The wine is worth 19 – and is definitely the finest Las Cases we’ve tasted so far.

This is gorgeously layered with cassis bush, anise, roasted fig and plum reduction notes all framed by racy espresso and graphite. Very deep and very long, with terrific intensity on the finish thanks to razor cut from the seemingly endless iron spine. With its purity and precision, this mineral-driven Cabernet should cruise for two decades. Best from 2020 through 2035. 14,165 cases made.

Being Léoville-Las Cases, it is, as you would expect, still pretty determined to play its cards close to its chest. And yet the exuberance and generosity of 2009 is beginning to peep though. For those of us who lack patience, these kind of years are just brilliant for checking out what Las Cases is all about: brooding tannins are just starting to stir, controlling a tight-knit cassis, cigar box, pencil lead and liquorice body. You feel the skill in the unpeeling of the tannins, opening to reveal the perky fresh core, and you can see just why this is such a great estate.

Let yourself go and sink into this deep, dark chasm that will swallow you whole if you let it. Enormous concentration, but every bit as much finesse, the finish extremely long and fine. And this is just beginning to give its best! Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)

Saturated purple. Intense black fruit with a very fine but insistent tannic bite. Plenty of alcohol. Little in the way of complexity, though. Seems very upfront, perhaps even a bit superficial. (RH)

The 2009 Léoville Las-Cases simply delivers on the nose with intense blackberry, wild hedgerow, graphite and crushed stone aromas on the nose. You would put this down as a Pauillac if served blind, unsurprising given that it borders that appellation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, silky smooth in texture with immense depth. It is blessed with quite brilliant delineation and the precision on the finish is magnificent. Chapeau Mr. Delon. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits Ten Year On tasting.

If you like great Cuban cigars, the nose here has your name on it. From there, add forest floor, leaf, red fruits, spice, flowers and a waft of smoke. Full-bodied, powerful, graceful and concentrated, this is a perfect example of classic Bordeaux at its best. The wine is firm, focused, fresh, pure and mouth-filling. Light on its feet, especially when you consider the level of density here, the fruit is what stands out the most for its vibrancy, purity and length. If you need to see what this is about now, give it 2-3 hours of air. If you can wait, this will rock your glass in another decade or so!

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening at the rim. Attractive black-berried fruit, a hint of cassis and liquorice, mineral notes, old wood spice, a touch of orange zest, a highly multi-faceted bouquet. Juicy palate with ripe cherries, good fruit expression, ripe tannins, full of finesse, fresh, mineral and persistent. Shows great elegance, enormous length and definite ageing potential. Already very seductive and accessible, with the potential to age for many decades.

Still a baby, the 2009 Château Leoville Las Cases is largely in the mold of the 1990 and 1982, offering a sexy opulence while staying in the classic, structured style of the estate. Based on 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc, its still ruby/purple hue is followed by a sensational array of blackcurrants, cedar pencil, green tobacco, exotic spices, and incense. With incredible purity, ultra-fine tannins, full-bodied richness, and that rare mix of power and elegance, this magical Saint-Julien is just now starting to reveal some secondary nuances and won't hit full maturity for another decade. It should see its 75th birthday in fine form.

Luscious vintage that allows even Las Cases to be generous and almost hedonistic at 14 years old, almost unheard of with this property (helped by a slightly higher level of alcohol than usual that fills out the mouthfeel). This remains more closed down than most 2009s you will find, with tannins that are powerful and confident, guiding the cassis fruit while allowing gourmet notes of dark chocolate, tarte Tatin and pomegranate to surface, along with bitter edges of burnt saffron, licorice and charcoal. 50% new oak, pH 3.6. Harvest September 22 to October 7.

Monumental attack, with a formidable structure, yet the wine has flesh and a lovely aromatic profile. Built for eternity.