René Gabriel
A DAVE BRUBECK–STYLE LYNCH
The Lynch-Bages 2015 fact sheet reads “Take Five.” The Lynch team gives each new vintage a music title. Besides the grape varieties, the interested reader also learns details such as an acidity of 3.7 grams per liter, with the added note of H2SO2. The pH is said to be 3.62 and the IPT 76. Be that as it may, when you taste this sensationally successful Lynch-Bages, you no longer need any explanatory details. You really get the feeling there’s music in it. Whether it turns into a jazz variant will probably only become clear in a good 20 years…
Barrel sample: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-garnet, dense at the core, lilac shimmer at the rim. Clear Cabernet-driven start, spicy, licorice, dark noble woods and crushed peppercorns. Only on the second pass does the blue-to-black fruit come through. On the palate, fleshy, fairly fine yet well-supportive tannins; the extract is demanding and again shows this impression of black pepper, currants and dark noble woods, already conveying the first hints of tobacco, with a persistent finish. For the vintage, it has turned out astonishingly profound. (19/20). 18: Incredibly dark color, violet and cherry-red at the same time. Beautiful bouquet, gently milky, light toasty notes, almost nutty, no nasal “hit,” instead approaching with a kind of noble restraint. On the palate, dense, fairly fine-textured and surprisingly juicy. Now it comes across with much more drive than on the nose. It’s at the starting blocks, yet still needs time, and will one day go down as one of the finer Lynch-Bages. Pauillac-Beautiful! (19/20). 19: Dark wine-red with ruby and gently violet highlights. Intense, direct fruit bouquet: cassis, elderberry and blueberry. On the second pass, a discreet herbal note in the form of lemon balm. Thus it shows many highly appealing primary aromas. On the palate it continues in the same vein; the tannins are anything but shy and call for at least 10 years of bottle age. On the one hand it has potential, on the other it feels popular and will likely build a strong fan club. For the moment, understandably a bit up-front and at the same time tending toward reductive. The potential easily reaches: 19/20. 21: Purple-black, no chance of seeing through the core. Brilliant bouquet. Black Currant, elderberry, blackberry jelly, minimally lactic. On the second pass: rock candy and dark chocolate. On the palate it surprises with its finesse, its juiciness and its almost silky tannins; bundled, long finish. A great Pauillac with freshness, elegance and poise. It didn’t seem unapproachable. Apparently it was going through a brilliant in-between phase. (19/20).