Château Marsau 2016

Very solid, offering a core of steeped black currant and blackberry confiture notes liberally lined with anise edges and backed by a racy, chalky spine for balance. Approachable, but a few years of cellaring will work too. Best from 2021 through 2027. 5,833 cases made.

This is an extremely reliable Côtes wine from owner Mathieu Chardronnier that absolutely deserves to be recognised for its succulent fruit and restrained but confident extraction and balance. This is very good, emphasising what 2016 does so well with the reds. It is juicy and powerful but not excessive, making it an utterly drinkable wine. 89-90 points.

100% Merlot. 2016 started with a wet and rainy spring, but with a somewhat unexpected sunny spell during flowering, which ensued under perfect conditions. Summer then settled in from 18 June, with plenty of bright, sunny and dry weather, all the way through to harvest. 2016 was so dry that it was on the verge of drought, until some welcome light rain in early September. Harvest 7–15 October. Deep ruby. Smoky and spicy on the nose with peppery black fruits. The palate is chalky and structured, perhaps too much so. Firm and fresh, lacking a little fruit density. Cool black fruits on the finish. (TP)

Chocolate, licorice, black cherry, smoke, and herbs come alive in the perfume. The wine has depth, tannin, roundness and plenty of ripe, smoky black cherries and plummy fruit from start to finish. But interestingly, even though it is 100% Merlot, it needs at least a few more years in the cellar. This bottle took 90 minutes of decanting to pop. For the unprincely sum of $15, this is a winner.

The 2016 Marsau is 100% Merlot. Medium to deep garnet in color, it has a powerful nose of plum preserves, baked blackberries, and licorice with nuances of violets, black olives, and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is concentrated, featuring ripe, rounded tannins and plenty of freshness to support the generous fruit, finishing on a lingering blueberry note.

The wine is refining and now reveals all its potential, still in a deep style. It pairs beautifully with duck breast.

You can start opening 2016, even though the wine has not yet reached the end of its aristocratic Merlot discourse, crowned with distinguished fruit over a harmonious body that is still youthful and fresh.

88–90. Barrel Sample. This wine is richly spicy and refreshingly juicy. Fine tannins give the wine its structure while leaving the beautiful fruit right up front. This will be ready from 2025.