René Gabriel
06: Deep garnet with purple highlights, profound at the core. Reserved bouquet showing lots of stewed prunes, with inky touches and truffle; it struggles to reveal itself and the nose is almost blocked by its massive tannins. Firm palate, blue- to black-berry contours, a solid bite with a gently cushioned core, an almost brutal astringency from tannins that come across more angular—almost arrogant—and will require a great, great deal of patience. The final chapter has not yet been written. But before we can round it up here, a counterweight to the dominant tannins will first have to emerge through continued barrel ageing and later bottle ageing. (18/20).
09: Deep garnet, saturated at the core. Warm bouquet of dried fruits, tar and truffle notes, quite full on the attack, even though it is still closed. Firm on the palate, with flesh and bite, but ripe tannins—so as a food wine it makes a good sparring partner. (18/20).
11: Deep, saturated garnet. Dense and deep, red-berry tendencies, wonderful cherry tones, magnificent terroir perfume, stone dust and white pepper, documenting the typical, feminine 2005 sweetness. Elegant palate; the tannins are already beautifully integrated, the acidity is still somewhat forward; it needs plenty of time, but must also shed a faintly ‘capsule-like’ note. (18/20).
11: Noble bouquet, dark chocolate notes, fine woods, a touch of tobacco and delicate hints of leather; the fruit feels ripe and shows plummy contours. Balanced astringency, velvety extract, subtly inky notes in the extract; the bottle calls for quite a lot of ageing. In any case, it signals a great terroir. (19/20).
15: Still very young and demanding. A serious wine, with a certain introversion—at least for the next 5 years. (19/20).
19: Extremely dark, almost black at the core. The bouquet shows the desire—after many years of being closed—to please for the first time. It shows more spice than fruit. First you find Alpine blueberries, then the nose quickly shifts to black pepper, Karbonileum, dark leather and walnut. On the palate, it displays its dramatic length from the outset; the tannins form a noble, yet still demanding astringency. Decant! (19/20).
21: Deep ruby with the last violet highlights. Although still restrained, the tightly woven bouquet is precise and straight as an arrow. The nose radiates as many floral as fruity notes. The latter are minimally red-berry and above all blue- and black-berry, complemented by liquorice, dark chocolate, mint and thyme. On the palate it starts very pleasantly, almost suggesting a first phase of maturity, then the tannins tighten their grip and increase the astringency, delivering the message of a very long life. Perfectly vinified and one of the first great wines from Château Montrose after the long era of the Charmolüe family. (19/20).
22: Magnum. Purple–violet–black. What a colour! For a young Montrose, it comes across as relatively approachable. Inky opening. Stewed prunes, truffle, black peppercorns, pipe tobacco. Despite its presumed power, the nose is decidedly noble—elevated, regal. After a few minutes it scents of blueberries and blackcurrants. Then fresh herbs follow and the aromatic parade becomes ever more layered and expansive. On the palate it impresses with its streamlined character, straight and precisely aligned. The massive yet rounded tannins know how to integrate. The finish intoxicates and impresses at the same time. A perfect Montrose on the way to the maximum score—likely in about 10 years. Those who wait will get even more; those who don’t will already get a great deal. (19/20).