Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue : Bonnes-Mares Grand cru 2021

Characteristics and tasting tips for the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2021 from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

Tasting

Appearance

The appearance reveals a red hue.

Nose

The nose reveals a complex and floral aromatic profile, typical of the 2021 vintage. Aromas of sweet cherries, blueberries, and blackberries are detected, accompanied by notes of floral petals and damp forest earth. Touches of mushroom, dry wood, and slate complete the bouquet, while nuances of white spices, blood orange, and ground coffee add an extra dimension. The nose reveals itself gradually, with characteristic elegance and restraint.

Palate

On the palate, this wine presents a medium-to-full-bodied profile, with a rich and fleshy texture. Flavors of black and red fruits dominate, with black cherries, blueberries, and blackberries, enhanced by notes of tart red fruits and blood orange. The tannic structure stands out for its remarkable finesse, with powdery and delicate tannins offering a very soft tactile sensation. The acidity remains lively and fresh, while a substantial mineral and saline expression lends the wine a distinctive earthy dimension. The finish proves impressive in length, with a savory quality and a salty dryness characteristic of the ferruginous clay terroir.

Food and wine pairings

This Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2021 pairs harmoniously with forest game meats such as roasted pheasant with morels, roasted woodcock, or smoked venison. It also goes wonderfully with pan-seared foie gras with a red wine reduction, grilled Breton lobster, or roasted lamb with herbs.

Service and storage

It is recommended to serve this Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2021 at a temperature between 14 and 16°C. Decanting for twenty to thirty minutes before serving will allow for gradual oxygenation and optimal revelation of the wine's aromatic potential. According to critics, this wine can be enjoyed now but will reach its peak around 2025, with a cellaring potential extending until approximately 2035.

A Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Chambolle-Musigny combining finesse and minerality

The estate

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, established in Chambolle-Musigny in Burgundy, traces its origins back to 1450 with Jean Moisson. The property officially took the name Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé in 1925, when Count Georges inherited the vineyards from his father. Today, the estate is managed by Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, granddaughters of Count Georges, who perpetuate twenty generations of uninterrupted family continuity. With approximately 12.5 hectares of vines, the estate notably holds 70% of the prestigious Musigny Grand Cru and is the largest owner of the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru with about 20% of the appellation. Jean Lupatelli has been the oenological director since 2021, supported by Jean-Luc Pépin and Eric Bourgogne. The estate embodies a philosophy of respect for the terroir and constant excellence, producing wines of exceptional finesse and delicacy.

The vineyard

This Bonnes-Mares comes from the 2.66 hectares that the estate owns in this Grand Cru shared between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. The estate's plots are located entirely in the Chambolle portion, in the southern region of the climat. The terroir stands out for its unique soil composition, resting entirely on red soils and ferruginous clays that contrast with the white limestone soils present elsewhere in the vineyard. This clay and ferruginous dominance confers a distinctive expression to the wine. The subsoil consists of hard limestone of Bathonian and Bajocian formation. The average age of the vines is around twenty-nine years, with the oldest vines dating back to 1945.

The vintage

The 2021 vintage stands out as one of the most difficult years of the decade in Burgundy. Spring was marked by devastating frosts on April 22 and 26-27, causing significant losses of flowers and young clusters. Conditions of excessive humidity during flowering led to coulure and millerandage issues. A localized hail episode affected certain portions of vineyards on August 22. Despite these adversities, the grapes that reached maturity presented excellent phenolic quality. Yields settled at around 50% of normal levels. Chambolle-Musigny was among the most successful communes of the vintage, benefiting from its limestone soil composition and favorable exposure. The vintage is characterized by remarkable freshness, elevated floral aromas, and lively acidity.

Winemaking and ageing

The harvest of the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2021 began on September 22, 2021. The estate practiced preliminary sorting in the vineyard before harvest and systematically eliminated dried berries during operations. The arrival of Jean Lupatelli in the spring of 2021 coincided with the introduction of significant changes to winemaking protocols. The major innovation consisted of the use of 50% whole bunches for all the estate's reds. The estate replaced large harvest bins with 20 kg crates and substituted the mechanical pump with a gentler elevator system. Malolactic fermentation was accelerated, beginning during the autumn immediately post-harvest. A system of prolonged rest in large tanks for 1.5 to 2 months was established before bottling, lending the wine better integrity and clearer expression.

Grape variety

100% Pinot Noir