M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2011

Ripe and rich, with a warm piecrust frame around a core of salted butter, creamed Jonagold apple, verbena, shortbread and candied citrus peel, which all pump through the finish. Well-embedded acidity keeps this driving along. The finish is sneakily long, with a mineral element mixing with the ripe fruit. Best from 2016 through 2026. 15 cases imported.

Bright gold. Heady, mineral-powered citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complicated by jasmine, honey and iodine. Weighty and broad but showing unlikely vivacity to its ripe pear and orange flavors, which are sharpened by intense minerality. Delivers impressive clarity on the finish, which clings with outstanding tenacity and a suave floral quality.

The 2011 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc is pure perfection in white wine. Coming from very old, pre-phylloxera vines planted in granitic (and some limestone) soils, it offers up a kaleidoscope of marzipan, flower oil, brioche, honeysuckle, and powdered rock-like minerality. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated on the palate, it stays fresh and elegant, with off-the-charts purity of fruit as well as a monster of a finish.