M. Chapoutier : La Mordorée 1998

The 1998 Cote Rotie La Mordoree, a wine that spends 12 months in 100% new oak, and is made from 75-80-year-old Syrah vines planted on both the Cote Blonde and Cote Brune (some are adjacent to Guigal's La Turque), exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color in addition to a spectacular nose of grilled toast, cured olives, cassis, fried bacon, and smoke. As it sits in the glass, additional nuances emerge. Deep, full-bodied, powerful, and concentrated, this 1998 is already approachable. The unctuous texture and long, 45-second finish suggest even greater promise for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

Saturated medium ruby color. Raspberry, roasted herbs, smoked meat and a floral note on the nose. Very rich, dense and sweet; youthfully unevolved but already quite attractive. Red berry flavors are lifted by a peppery element. Finishes suave and very long, with slow-building flavors and very fine tannins.