M. Chapoutier : Le Méal 2022

Decidedly rich in style, the oak is quite marked, with roasted pineapple notes, lemon verbena and lemon thyme. Very full-bodied, this is massive, assertive and powerful, but with great freshness and energy. Flinty, smoky elements and a long, salty, mineral finish. One for the ages. Pure Marsanne, vines are over 50 years old, planted on pebbles, clay and some loess, facing south. Whole-bunch pressed, half fermented in demi-muids, half in vats.

A harmonious yet bold white, full of character, texture and balance all at once. This showcases grilled peaches, dried lemon peel, warm spices and herbs plus some salt. Full-bodied, it has incredible drive, verve and energy but remains focused. Restrained power with some salted lemons toward the almost endless, precise finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink from 2027.

Cask sample. Mealy notes, grilled pineapple, with a subtle pyrazine note beneath as well. On the palate there is a honeyed character and real richness, warm and inviting honeysuckle and nectarine. Concentrated fruit with a backbone of freshness as well. Impressive – rich and rounded. (AC)

Brilliance in the glass, the 2022 Ermitage Blanc Le Méal offers an aromatic medley of lemon flesh, verbena tea, spring blossom and a touch of pear, pastry and white flowers. Full-bodied yet invigoratingly refreshing, the 2022 showcases impeccable precision akin to a high-end Swiss watch. The finish exudes lively energy, leaving a vibrant and refined impression that is as delightful as it is enduring.

The 2022 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc is a bigger, richer effort, with voluptuous amounts of white peach, orange marmalade, stone fruits, and crushed stone-like minerality all soaring from the glass. Rich, full-bodied, and beautifully concentrated, with a gorgeous finish, it will already make your eyes roll back in your head, but I'd give bottles 2-3 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

Salty, ripe, smoky and round, with tremendous depth to its apple, crushed herb and warm spice notes. Earthy and saline through the concentrated finish, which is weighty and stretches way out, with a flattering whisper of toast. Turns piercing and focused in feel, showing a bitter kick of quinine. A stunning, delicious and contemplative white. Drink now through 2037. 10 cases imported.