William Fèvre : Chablis 1er cru "Montée de Tonnerre" Domaine 2023

This powerful, thrilling wine shows pronounced, ripe aromas of mirabelle plum, nectarine and green apple, with a strong underpinning of flinty minerality and smoky reduction. The texture is tightly wound and compact; it's substantial but not heavy, carrying the wine to a marvellously long finish. The grapes come from 2.24ha in the lieux-dits Pied d'Aloup, Côte de Bréchain (planted in 1936), and Chapelot, fermented in a combination of tank and cask, now ageing on the lees prior to bottling. Ideally, wait five years before opening and drink over the next 30.

The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre unites a solar personality of the year with tension, delivering aromas of beeswax, pear, orange peel and fennel, mingling with oyster liquor. Medium- to full-bodied, the palate is tangy and textural, with considerable depth and a long, saline finish.

Excellent depth of minerality and chalkiness, with smoky, flinty green apples. Chalky on the palate, with medium- to full-bodied character and a zesty, lightly saline finish. Energetic, with purity and inconspicuous depth and concentration. Drink or hold.