Barone Ricasoli : Castello di Brolio Gran Selezione 2018

This is very spicy with nutmeg, cloves and hints of hazelnuts that add complexity to the black-cherry and raspberry undertones. Full-bodied, rich and layered with a velvety texture and a flavorful finish. Beautiful center palate. Very powerful and structured. Hints of mushroom and balsamic in the aftertaste. Needs time to soften. Try after 2024.

Gaiole in Chianti. Although the tech sheet says this is 100% Sangiovese, it also says 'created from a meticulous selection of the best Sangiovese and Abrusco (rare, deep-coloured Tuscan) grapes from the estate's vineyards.' Deep crimson. Very sweet nose. Much less appetising than the normale with some rather obvious oak. Lacks the lift and tang of the normale. Just a little sickly and a tad oily. (JR)

Iris, camphor and cedar aromas emerge from the glass. The medium-bodied palate offers black plum, espresso and vanilla alongside polished tannins. It's already accessible but also offers good midterm aging potential. Drink through 2028.