Gosset : Grand Millésime 2015

A firm, focused version, this swathes a chiseled spine of acidity in a raw, silky texture and finely meshed flavors of yellow peach, orange liqueur, honeycomb and chopped almond. A rich streak of salinity drives the well-cut, spiced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2035. 200 cases imported.

Full bottle 1,811 g. Roughly half each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Heavy bottle, even for champagne. Rich, creamy; stone-cut-oats porridge with lavish latherings of butter, clotted cream and honey. The fruit is dense, ripe, peaches, golden melon; but the wine holds a firm line with masses of texture and those broad shoulders have regal bearing. Mouth-filling, concentrated and substantial. The perfect wine for coquilles St-Jacques, I'd say. (TC)

The 2015 Brut Grand Millésime is terrific. Bright and intensely floral, the 2015 bristles with all the energy that is such a signature of the Gosset house style. White flowers, mint and crushed flowers open first. If I have a critique of Gosset it is that the wines can be a bit austere. That is certainly not the issue here. The 2015 is distinguished by its sweet, resonant mid-palate and terrific depth. All the elements are so nicely balanced throughout.

Glorious ripeness on the nose, expressed as ripe quince with an aromatic note of Kirsch, candied cherry and shortcrust, immediately sets the tone, promising richness. In true Gosset fashion, that richness is present in aromatics since the palate remains absolutely taut, fine and lacy. Poise and elegance are foremost, vivid freshness is constantly renewed with every tiny, bursting, creamy bubble. A feat to pack so much expression into such slenderness. Gorgeous.

Composed of 59% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, the 2015 Grand Millésime Brut is vibrant and ripe with fresh bread dough, grapefruit, and white flowers. It is pure on the palate, with ripe, crystalline pear and a beautifully clean stony texture. It will benefit from another couple of years in cellar and drink well 2024-2040.

51% Pinot Noir, 49% Chardonnay. It follows the 2012. Attractive nose of white fruits. On the palate, a very straight, saline, mouthwatering attack, all about freshness and verticality; it will appeal to Champagne lovers. The absence of malo heightens its energy, suits its style—and we love it!

The nose is open, the Pinot brings its aromatic patina, and the nose seems precise without the vegetal markers so typical of this kind of vintage. The wine shows good, generous volume with well-integrated mousse. There is backbone and fresh tension; it’s a young wine that will improve.

Having retained all its youthful acidity because there was no malolactic fermentation, the Champagne is brilliantly lit. Acidity and a light texture from the Pinot Noir in the blend give the wine a crisp edge with still-young citrus. Drink the wine from 2024.

The 2015 Brut Grand Millésime offers up notes of white flowers, citrus zest, crisp green apple and subtle hints of cut grass, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich but vibrant palate with a somewhat firm, phenolic finish. There's plenty of structure and substance here, but the wine is rather compact out of the gates, to the extent that this appears to be one of the weaker efforts among recent releases from Gosset.