Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2006

The 2006 Pichon Lalande, which blows away the 2005, represents a return to the velvety-textured, rich, sexy style most readers would associate with Pichon Lalande. This blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot — no Petit Verdot was included in the final blend — exhibits a dense purple color as well as abundant aromas of chocolate, coffee, cedar, black currants, and a subtle touch of smoke, a rich, savory, full-bodied mouthfeel, plump, fleshy fruit, and a superb finish. This is a 21st-century version of the brilliant 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030. One of the major disappointments in 2005 was Pichon Lalande, but the change in ownership, with the Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm taking control in 2006, resulted in a very severe selection being instituted: only 41% of the production went into the grand vin.

Rich and powerful but also restrained, with the characteristic perfume of Pichon Comtesse, this offers enormous potential for pleasure. The silky damson fruit also has a supporting cast of cloves and dark chocolate, with black truffles just starting to appear.

One of the most pleasant and unexpected surprises in this tasting, the 2006 Pichon Lalande is gorgeous, which is something I can’t say about too many wines in a vintage marked by climatic ups and downs and irregular ripening. Dark, powerful and intense, the 2006 possesses exceptional balance. A host of black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and menthol flesh out in this decidedly somber, virile Pichon Lalande. In a vintage in which so many wines are so rustic, the 2006 Pichon Lalande is all class. This sleeper Pichon Lalande will drink well for at least the next two decades, perhaps longer.

Still young, fresh, vibrant and holding on to much of its youth, the nose gets you off and running with its floral, tobacco, cedar, wet earth and dark red berry character. Concentrated, lushly textured, with firm but softening tannins, the wine leaves you with soft, polished, ripe fruits that make you thirsty for another sip. Structured for long aging, you can drink this young, but it's going to be so much better with another 5–8 years of age, due to its strong tannins. The wine was made from blending 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot. The harvest took place from September 20 to October 1.

Deep purple, dense at the core, garnet glints on a clearly brightening rim. For a 2006, however, it comes across as very red-berried with distinct cherry notes and a floral sheen, subtle lactic hints, actually showing rather little drive. On the palate, medium weight, fairly fine tannins, with a firm backbone. Currently closed.

64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot. 41 hl/ha. Deep garnet with plenty of violet highlights. Delicate blackberry bouquet, elegant, not overbearing, almost a touch discreet; the Cabernet is complemented on the nose by sweet-fruited Merlot, with a subtle candied-sugar sweetness. Very fine palate, almost dancing here as well, lovely balance, tannins still slightly powdery, ripe plums, lots of juice, black berries, focused finish. The same wine was first served to us from a decanter, then we asked for a “fresh” barrel sample, which proved more direct and fresher; however, what remained was the rather intense bitterness in the extract, which will likely contribute to breed later on. Can improve. (17/20). 12: Deep purple, saturated at the core, garnet glimmer on the clearly brightening rim. For a 2006 it comes across very red-berried with pronounced cherry tones and a floral sheen, subtle lactic hints, actually showing relatively little drive. On the palate medium-weight, fairly fine tannins with a firm-edged sheen. Is it closed at the moment? I would have expected a bit more here. But that may well come back.

The 2006 Pichon Lalande has only 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot, with no Cabernet Franc, nor Petit Verdot, in the blend. It is deep garnet-brick in color and is a little closed to start, opening out to notes of tar, unsmoked cigars, crushed rocks, and dried sage, plus subtle fruit suggestions of prunes and dried blackberries. The medium-bodied palate is firm and chewy with muscular, savory-laced black fruits and a rugged finish. It's a dense, sturdy claret, for sure, although it lacks the grace and finesse of a great Pichon Lalande.

More Cabernet than usual, taut, masculine, very Havana-like, vigorous, still austere but with great potential.

Logo on the cork: A in a circle (Amorim) Dark color, normal intensity and slightly evolved. Intense nose, fruity, with vanilla and a hint of coconut. Caressing palate with a slender body. Coated tannins. Medium length.