Château Rauzan-Gassies 2021

As en primeur, a wine with edges and corners, herbal, cool, fresh, spicy. On the palate, somewhat rather austere, with dry tannins.

The 2021 Rauzan-Gassies opens in the glass with aromas of dark berries, burning embers and baked plums, followed by a medium to full-bodied, reasonably fleshy wine built around powdery tannins and lively acids. It's not a profound wine, but it's much better than the samples I tasted en primeur led me to believe.

Full and fruity, supple and agile, this has a lovely density of fruit with quite prominent mineral tannins that give a slight bite and an edge of chalkiness on the palate. The two elements aren’t quite harmonised yet, but this shows promise. It feels well made with fruit maturity, high acidity and a long finish. The fruit does taper, but this feels like it has good potential.

Flowers, tobacco leaf, mint and bright, vibrant red cherries express the character of this medium-bodied, energetic offering. The finish continues along the same path with a minty edge to the bright red cherries on the mid-palate and on the back end of the finish. Drink from 2025-2040.

Dark ruby core, purple reflections, subtle brightening on the rim. Smoky, dark berry fruit and a touch of roasted wood aromas. Ripe plums, somewhat loosely knit with vivid tannins and touches of chocolate on the finish, still seems a bit unharmonious.

Mulberries, earthy cherries, green herbs, and cedar notes all emerge from the 2021 Château Rauzan-Gassies, a more medium-bodied, lean, yet elegant effort that has soft tannins and a good finish. It's not one of the top Margaux in the vintage, but it has a classic, enjoyable style.

Kunz barrel sample 2022: (78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 36 hl/ha, 13% alc. by vol.) Herbaceous, slender bouquet, old wood, blackcurrant, green herbs. Slim, firm palate with sandy tannins, light, sweet, upfront fruit, light aromatics, dry finish.

(78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 36 hl/ha, 13% vol. alcohol) Herbal, slender bouquet, old wood, blackcurrant, green herbs. Slim, firm palate with sandy tannins, light, sweet, upfront fruit, delicate aromatics, dry finish. 16/20 2027 - 2038

Plenty of personality, layers of earth and cold ash, bilberry and cassis fruits, underpowered through the mid palate but charming with supple tannic hold and lift on the finish. 36 hl/ha yield. This is a classified Margaux that has never overly pushed its pricing, and has a loyal following. Single point upscore.

Dark color, of normal intensity. Very aromatic nose with pure, ripe, floral fruit. The palate is all about tactile finesse, with bright fruit and a pleasing sweetness through the mid-palate. Very even finish. A whole built around an unprecedented level of meticulousness at this estate. Blend: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot. Alcohol: 13%. Yield: 38 hl/ha.