M. Chapoutier : Barbe Rac 2013

Restrained and stylish, loaded with gorgeous layers of cassis, raspberry and damson plum fruit that stream along, lined with anise, shiso leaf and iron notes. The long, pure finish shows terrific cut and focus. This should expand considerably in the cellar, as there's some latent grip. A superb effort for the vintage. Best from 2017 through 2030. 46 cases imported.

(aged entirely in concrete tanks): Brilliant ruby-red. Explosively perfumed aromas of fresh raspberry, spicecake and potpourri take on a smoky mineral nuance with air. Offers palate-staining red fruit and floral flavors that stretch out and turn sweeter and spicier with air. Closes silky, minerally and long, with sneaky tannins and an emphatic echo of raspberry.

Earthy, with a smoky, thyme and cherry note that stands out, the wine is silky, soft and polished, with freshness and sweetness to the fruit. The wine is made with 100% old-vine Grenache.

My favorite wine in the lineup was the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac. Coming from a plot of old vines located on the western side of the appellation and made from 100% Grenache, it offers vintage-defying levels of blackberry, currants, licorice and smoked herbs on the nose. These carry to a full-bodied, inky colored Châteauneuf du Pape that has a superb, voluptuous texture, excellent mid-palate depth and sweet tannin, all of which suggest it will evolve for 10-15 years.