Bouchard Père & Fils : Chevalier-Montrachet Grand cru Domaine 2013

This white is spectacular, with a muscular, tightly formed structure that gives the wine wonderful density and agility. In texture, it’s more like a red wine. Full-bodied, fantastic fruit. Long finish. Better in 2018.

Smells both creamy and bright-fruited. Like the other Bouchard whites, this is pretty light on the palate, but here there is greater persistence. Crisp, juicy, but not really grand cru material and not for the long term. (JH)