Bouchard Père & Fils : Montrachet Grand cru Domaine 2022

There’s nice tension between the creamy texture and vibrant acidity in this complex, expressive white. Peach, candied apple, butter and baking spice flavors mingle, framed with toasty oak. As this plays out on the mouthwatering finish, a mineral accent peeks through. Best from 2027 through 2036. 60 cases imported.

The 2022 Bouchard Montrachet is slightly reserved but has an immense presence on the palate, with ripe apple and quince fruit, hints of white flowers, chalk, and exotic tangerine peel. The wine has enormous extract yet all the freshness necessary for balance as well—this is a superb expression of finesse and power at the same time. The grapes come from the domaine’s 0.89 hectares on the Puligny side; they are lightly crushed and gently pressed, and only the finest must is fermented in cask before ageing over two winters in cask (15% new). This wine is a towering achievement.

Built on a grand scale for the long term. Starts quite gently on the full-bodied palate, but it is a giant of concentration and structure. Lots of almond paste and candied lemon, but also wild herbs and chalk. And somehow all this manages to retain a grace and subtlety that makes it hard to resist. From organically grown grapes. From a 0.89 hectare plot in this world-famous site. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

Cask sample. Ripe like the Chevalier-Montrachet Cabotte, openly fruity for such a young grand cru. Cedary green fruits and citrus. Chewy-creamy texture, already so amenable and harmonious. Hard to know how this will age so I am being cautious. (JH)