Bollinger : RD Récemment Dégorgé 2007

Disgorged on July 10, 2020, with three grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's eagerly awaited 2007 Extra-Brut R. D. is beautiful, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, citrus pith and white flowers mingled with hints of honey, orange oil, buttery pastry, English walnuts and delicately spicy bass notes. Full-bodied, vibrant and incisive, it's unusually elegant and structurally fine-boned for what is routinely one of Champagne's more muscular tête de cuvées, with a bright spine of acidity that's cloaked in vibrant, concentrated fruit, complemented by a pearly pinpoint mousse and concluding with an intensely sapid finish. Long and penetrating, this is a tightly coiled R. D. that will reward bottle age.

Minerally on the nose, with accents of sea breeze and brine, transitioning on the palate to a deep and finely knit range of ripe nectarine and dried white cherry fruit, chopped almond and espresso crema, with hints of tangerine peel, saffron and ground cardamom. Fine and lacy in texture, this is sleek and mouthwatering through to the finish, where the salinity returns, echoing a lasting note. Disgorged July 2020. Drink now through 2032. 300 cases imported.

What an amazing nose this has, like the smell of a rock pool on a rocky coast, but with so many candied-fruit, spicy and mushroom notes behind that. That fruit is way more expressive on the powerful and structured palate with lime freshness and chalky minerality at the super-long, bone-dry finish. Disgorged 28th May, 2021.

A hint of hazelnut praline clings to the creamy notions on the nose, aligned to a pleasant smokiness and a hint of dark peony. More air adds notions of white pepper and toasted cumin. The palate is exquisitely creamy – the Bollinger hallmark – but with 2007 this texture is presented with exquisite poise. The bright freshness that underlies all this keeps a subtle but constant presence, lending structure. Beautiful depth lends a kind of solidity that anchors this in chalky soil, a class act and a very grown-up wine that says one thing only: enduring elegance. A.K.

(disgorgement: 07/10/2020) The nose is elegant, fruity, fleshy, offering freshness as well as power (with finesse). It reveals notes of juicy pear, crisp peach and, more subtly, peach blossom and verbena, combined with touches of ripe grapefruit, fine hints of candied mandarin, delicate zest and citrus blossom, as well as discreet nuances of dried apricot, buttery brioche, spices and a very subtle hint of fresh hazelnut. The palate is fruity and balanced, with gourmandise, a touch of power/concentration (in finesse), lovely roundness (in finesse), a delicate acid backbone, precision, suavity, beautiful tension and delicacy. Liveliness on the attack. The effervescence is very fine, delicate, precise, nicely defined and discreetly tight. On the palate, this Champagne expresses notes of crisp peach, fresh/juicy apple and, more lightly, lemon, combined with touches of apple blossom, fresh verbena and juicy mandarin, as well as fine hints of fresh almond, discreet notes of toasted hazelnut/crushed mirabelle, walnut and sweet spices. Good length and persistence. Score: 18.25+/20

A lovely, complex palette. A sunny hint with a touch of dried fruit and pastry notes. Beautiful yeast autolysis, and the palate lives up to it: it retains great freshness and length. A wine that keeps its poise and pedigree.