Charles Heidsieck : Blanc des Millénaires 2006

Recently disgorged with seven grams per liter dosage, the 2006 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires is expressive and charming, in keeping with the sunny, demonstrative style of the vintage. Offering up aromas of toasted brioche, honeycomb, yellow apples and preserved citrus, it's full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with a rich core of fruit, ripe acids and an attractive pinpoint mousse. It's already drinking well, and I'd be inclined to approach it sooner than the more tightly wound 2004 rendition.

A textbook blanc de blancs in a relatively opulent style, with ample grilled nut, brioche and spice character alongside classic flavors of poached apricot, kumquat, oyster shell and lemon blossom. This rich profile is well-defined by racy acidity, sleek and well-cut, driving the long, lacy finish. A beauty. Drink now through 2035. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 4,500 cases made, 185 cases imported.

We are a bit puzzled by the Blanc des Millénaires now offered in the 2006 vintage. It shows advanced development and finishes a little weakly.

On the nose, aromas of ripe lemon, yeasty and almost lactic, reminiscent of almond cake, which unfold on the palate with notes of freshly roasted coffee, superb breadth, and a pulpy, rich, delicately chalky finish.