Charles Heidsieck : Millésimé Brut Collection Crayères 1982

This original disgorgement from 1989 comes with a deep golden colour. Immediate aromatic richness, with almost savoury notes of honeycomb and candied lemon alongside melted stearin, grilled cashew and, with more air, a beautiful note of mandarin and clementine skin – a luminous, ripe, citrus fruitiness. The palate is exquisitely fresh – a streak of ripe lemon and candied lemon zest plays with beautiful notes of dark, slightly bitter honey. More air adds a hint of cold Ceylon tea. The acidity is gorgeously brisk, the mousse still fizzes away, holding its own against that wonderfully enduring and aromatic note of honey, whose tender bitterness informs the enduring finish.