Devaux : D Millésimé 2008

Excellent craftsmanship, albeit within quite a discretely framed ensemble. Stone fruit and verbena notes with a chalky minerality show this is still amazingly youthful and quite tight at the moment.

This has settled into a good place with pink grapefruit, cherries and peaches melded into savory, nutty complexity. The palate is super fine, long and crisp. This has attractive depth and drive. The acidity holds long. Disgorged in June 2015. Drink now.

Not the freshest nose. Light and limey. Very fresh. Zesty but not deep. (JR)

Defined by the generosity of Pinot Noir and honeyed nuances, elegantly dressed by its ageing on lees, this Champagne shows lovely zest. Enjoy it now.

This Aube-based producer has made a fine vintage from a good year. A half-and-half blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, still young and crisp, this concentrated wine brings in apricot as well as citrus fruits into a taut and mineral texture. Still full of its baby fruit, it will age well and will be best drunk from 2018.