Château Nénin 2009

For organisational reasons – the owner is Léoville-Las Cases – we always taste this wine in the Médoc. And that doesn’t quite do it justice. This estate has made tremendous progress in recent years. Admittedly, the alcohol still dominates somewhat, as in almost all wines of the appellation, but in terms of precision, structure, complexity and freshness, it is exemplary.

This is a noticeably grippier style, showing a chunky edge to the bittersweet cocoa and charcoal notes that support the core of dark fig and blackberry fruit. It has good, racy structure, so it should settle down with time in the cellar. Best from 2014 to 2027. 4,580 cases produced.

This has some evident caramel on the palate, going long on silky, gourmet edging. Those brushed, rich Pomerol tannins are clearly in evidence too, along with dark cassis fruits that add a more sombre edge, emphasising a concentrated expression. Good quality, although lacking some finesse.

A delicious Pomerol that manages to combine the richness the appellation is famous for with a lovely freshness and vitality. I love the elegant tannins that makes this turn ever drier as it flows over the palate. Plenty of life at the bright finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)

Delivering tobacco, forest floor, leaf, cigar box and red plum notes, the wine has softened and lost most of its youthful austerity. Sweet cherry and plum notes, with a hint of cocoa, come through nicely. The soft-textured finish ends with bright red fruits, herb and a forest leaf note.

Based on 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Château Nenin is showing beautifully, with a touch of maturity in its ripe blackcurrant and smoky blackberry fruit, as well as notes of dried tobacco, chocolate, crushed rock, and cedary aromas and flavours. With plenty of tannins, good concentration, and medium- to full-bodied richness, it’s in the early stages of its drinking window and will be even better with another 3–4 years of bottle age and keep for 15+.

Deep purple-garnet. A prune bouquet with a hint of clove and black cherries. A dense, richly textured palate, again with cherries in the extract. A compact, muscular, demanding Pomerol with breed and power.

Deep purple-garnet colour, dense at the core, a lilac sheen at the rim. Prune bouquet with a hint of clove and black cherries. Rich, textured palate, once again showing densely extracted cherry fruit, generous. A compact, muscular, seductive Pomerol with breed and power.

Merlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20%. Fruity, fresh, floral, sweet bouquet with cherries and red berries. Silky, medium-bodied, sweet palate with plenty of fruit, fine tannins and sweet aromatics. Elegant, sweet finish. 17/20 2014 - 2028

Silky, unctuous and long, showing flavourful black-fruit notes on both the nose and the palate, this 2009 is built for the long haul, with charm and a well-framed smoothness, and a violet-tinged finish. Pomerol novices will prefer this vintage, purists the 2010.

Taut and elegant, with just the right touch of menthol notes. A beautifully structured 2009. Great ageing potential.

Dense attack, plenty of flesh, long and tight-knit.

Purple colour. Intense, fruity, vanilla-accented and subtle nose. Voluminous, rich palate, and above all bursting with fruit on the mid-palate. A finish with refined texture and flavours. Fine tannins. Plenty of pleasure. A superb Nénin combining structural elegance and hedonism.

91-93 Barrel sample. There is a good structure to go with the rich fruit and intense ripeness. The acidity compensates for the slight burn of alcohol.