M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2004

All of the single-vineyard Ermitages turned out as good as I had hoped, possibly even better. In short, they are among the strongest wines one could hope for in this vintage. The 2004 Ermitage l’Ermite exhibits blueberry and floral notes, with that undeniable minerality lurking beneath the surface. It is full-bodied, which is rather remarkable in this vintage, with serious concentration for a 2004 and sweetness to the tannin. This wine might well be the most approachable of these wines, and drink well young yet last for 15 or more years. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Shows a mix of dark bramble notes and a zesty wild berry profile, with dark cocoa, tar and graphite in the background. The muscular edge on the finish is atypical for the vintage. Best from 2008 through 2017. 360 cases made, 85 cases imported.

Ruby-red. Remarkably intense raspberry, cherry, candied violet and graphite aromas show dramatic volume and thrust. Positively liqueur-like in sweetness and density, with mouthfilling red and dark fruit flavors, molten tannins and a late hit of cured meat. The ridiculously long finish boasts remarkable depth and clarity, and a never-ending display of ripe red fruits.

A wine with dense, concentrated juice. On the palate, great elegance. A smooth, delicate mouthfeel.

Wonderfully aromatic and complex, blending floral notes with mineral scents, bold cassis fruit and cracked pepper. This is full-bodied and muscular on the palate, the only one of Chapoutier's 2004s that really demands cellaring. Drink 2010–2020.