Château Léoville Las Cases 1988

Wow. Really youthful on the nose, with currant, blackberry and hints of vanilla bean. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and lots of mint and fruit. Goes on for a long time. Surprisingly youthful. Give it a couple of years. So focused and beautiful. -- '88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010.

This 1988 is still youthful with chewy tannins and a menthol send-off. It's full of rich, concentrated spice, with touches of cloves and cinnamon, and is holding up extremely well. It's a little more evolved than the 1986 but still shows just how regularly Las Cases rewards the faith that people have in it. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend.

What a complex nose here with forest floor, bark, sliced wild mushrooms and tobacco. Full-bodied and round with very juicy, savory character. It’s long and flavorful with leather, forest flowers and mushrooms at the end. Drinking wonderfully now.

Firm, classic, old-school styled wine with good concentration and a focus on its bright, crisp, herb and cedar accents. Better on the nose, with its peppery leaf, mint, cedar, tobacco and bright currant aromatics than on the crisp, sharp red berry and cranberry palate. The finish delivers a crunchy blast of red fruits. The wine is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. 12.75% ABV.

From a late, difficult vintage (harvest didn’t come in until October), the 1988 Léoville Las Cases is nevertheless a beautiful wine that’s drinking fabulously well today. Ripe currants, green tobacco, cedarwood, and loads of spice all emerge from this medium-bodied, fresh, elegant, yet oh-so-charming Saint-Julien. It’s not getting any better, but still has plenty of life. Drink it any time over the coming 7–8 years.

Great to see how Las Cases has survived from one of the good-but-not-great vintages of the 1980s. This was opened just before tasting, and needs time to uncurl. Opens up to show earthy, brambled notes of blackberry, tomato leaf, undergrowth, raspberry, saffron and crushed mint leaf. So much complexity and layers of flavor, perfectly read to drink. Harvest October 3 to 16, 50% new oak. Michel Delon owner.