René Gabriel
A CENTURY WINE WITH A “LONG PLATEAU”
René Gabriel: “What’s the difference between the already sensational 2014 and this 2015?”
Nicolas Glumineau: “We simply have a little more of everything: density, depth, tannin and intensity as well.”
Gabriel: “Is it even better than 2009 or 2010?”
Glumineau: “Maybe not better, but different. Or rather, exactly what a truly great Pichon-Lalande should be. A perfect symbiosis between a full-bodied Pauillac and a superb Pichon-Lalande.”
Gabriel: “Are there enough bottles for the die-hard fans?”
Glumineau: “We had a very decent crop size, which allowed us to select a lot for the Grand Vin. By today’s standards, it’s a lot. In the past—before my time—we also had harvests that yielded twice as much as this year. Admittedly, with less thrilling quality.”
Gabriel: “And when will this 2015 reach its best drinking window?”
Glumineau: “I estimate the start of its drinking window from 2027, with a long plateau.”
Gabriel: “Plateau???”
Glumineau: “Yes—plateau. Unfortunately, many wine lovers define drinking maturity as a peak, a high point. A great Bordeaux reaches maturity at some stage and then delivers maximum drinking pleasure for a very long time—sometimes for decades—even as it shifts from fruit aromas to terroir-driven notes. So you can definitely speak of a plateau!”
Barrel tasting 2016: 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Extremely dark purple with lilac and violet highlights. A ripe, complex bouquet with plenty of dark berries, underpinned by notes of dark chocolate. On the second nose, a tiny hint of dried fruit, with first notes of cedar and tobacco emerging. Full-bodied on the palate, showing a ripe, intense astringency; blueberries and blackcurrant notes, with an incredible aromatic drive carried through a seemingly burly finish. Along with Lafite, the best Pauillac! So it also deserves the maximum score—just like last year. Pichon-Lalande has clearly been soaring at an absolute level in recent years. It was the last wine at the Union des Grands Crus tasting at Lafon-Rochet, so I was able to compare it very well with its competitors. This one practically knocked me out. The next day, I re-tasted it at the estate. There is an incredible amount of aromatic complexity here, and it also has fine reserves. (20/20).
19: Very deep garnet-purple with a clearly ruby rim. An idiosyncratic bouquet, starting with an almost compote-like sweetness, hints of honey, pale malt, dried chamomile. I’m also reminded of lingonberry and blackberry juice. In summary: first lots of small, ripe red berries, then a touch of animal character in the form of deer leather. On the palate, peppery, compact, tightly wound, still showing little of its true potential. Towards the finish, it reveals a high level of Cabernet ripeness and moves into the finale sweetly and in a focused manner. Just after being poured, it struggled. I tasted it again after extended aeration and the evolution was heading in the right direction. For the moment, however, it cannot fully substantiate its euphoric en primeur rating (20/20). So patience is required. (19/20).