William Fèvre : Chablis 1er cru "Montée de Tonnerre" Domaine 2020

The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is a terrific success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, confit citrus and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, it's fleshy and seamless, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a long, expansive finish. After several years where this site bore the brunt of hail and frost, Montée de Tonnerre is back with a vengeance.

Fèvre has three parcels in Montée de Tonnerre (its purest, most mineral premier cru): Chapelot, Pied d'Aloup and Côte de Bréchain, all facing different ways. Very precise, crystalline fruits, salinity, great acidity and a long, long finish. Will age beautifully, but great now.

Tank sample. The nose has a beautiful jasmine note alongside chalky and stony freshness. White peach and honeycomb. Superb concentration and intensity of fruit, rounded and rich with a lovely defined palate and finish. Detailed as well as opulent. (AC)