René Gabriel
The 1980s are generally underestimated in Sauternes. That’s why these wines could be found for quite a long time at sensible prices. It evolves rather quickly, perhaps because of the fairly low acidity: an open, multi-layered bouquet; smoky note, marzipan, ripe fruit, medium sweetness. Cereal-like palate, still has extract, little sweetness; unfortunately it comes across rather dry and flowing, with a straw note on the finish showing that any remaining bottles should be drunk as soon as possible.
98: Medium yellow. Rich bouquet with a gentle vegetal aroma, but also lovely dried-fruit accents. On the palate it’s a bit clumsy at first, then balanced out by very good extract, with a jammy finish. Quite good for this small, difficult vintage. But looking back at my notes on Rieussec, I’d much rather go hunting for that—and save a lot of money, too.
07: Brought along for the Obwalden wine friends after Yquem and uncorked there at 11 a.m.; lacking glasses, or for added originality, it was passed around straight from the bottle. On the palate it shows a dry, slightly bitter sweetness; the finish also has a fine bitterness, partly balanced by its medium body. Still, it was a “hell of a moment”!
08: Yves Beck opened this wine to finish off a Treberwurst dinner in Twann. I saw the Yquem label but not the vintage. From the nose I rated it quite highly, around 18 points. But the aromatic promise didn’t fully carry through on the palate.
11: At a dinner at Rauzan-Ségla, just before coffee. Pretty cloyingly sweet nose, no botrytis. On the palate it was at least a Yquem—but not by taste, rather by looking at the label. (16/20).
16: You can praise for once instead of grumbling. A wonderful wine that has held up very well over 25 years. I drank it with a custard slice by Lake Soppensee, with very good friends. It was worth it. (16/20).
17: At a cellar table. Sweet, malty, almost fat, but unfortunately without much tension. Drink now. It still passes as a very good 1980. (16/20).
18: Still going very strong. Lots of apricot, but little botrytis. On the palate, a salty sweetness and a fine bitter note that remains in the extract. One of the best bottles so far. This bottle: 17/20.