René Gabriel
Barrel sample: expansive, creamy bouquet with a seductive, seamless sweetness of cassis and blackberry, backed by delicate vanilla and coconut notes. On the palate, pure suppleness, very modern winemaking, charm and finesse with great length. A benchmark of elegance, with room to improve. (17/20). Quite dark, deep purple-garnet. Noble, spicy bouquet showing dark roasted notes and a lovely Cabernet warmth, gently ethereal, mineral, and packed with aromatics. Dense, firm palate with impressive concentration, balanced yet still youthful astringency; shows muscle, flesh, breed, and stature, long aftertaste; needs at least 8 years to reach first maturity and could then gain another point. (18/20). 19: Still very dark in color, you can even see violet reflections inside the glass. The bouquet is quite reserved at first. Perhaps that’s because you can clearly sense from the outset that this wine delves to a remarkable depth. The aromas are dark-berried, showing fine woods, cedar scent, rosewood, licorice, and subtle nuances of Périgord truffle. These traces could embark on another aromatic evolution in the coming years. On the palate, powerful and fine at once; here this Haut-Bailly is a touch more generous with its aromas. A reassuring Grand Cru that reveals on a second pass that everything is there. One can speak here of an introverted Graves. Decant for a long time, or wait another 10 years. (18/20). 20: Last year I wrote that it was closed. And this summer I drank a wonderfully soft, approachable bottle. (18/20). 21: Medium ruby-garnet, subtly matte at the core, lightening at the rim. Classic Bordeaux bouquet—cherries, plums—but also refreshing floral notes indicating a gently “cool” Cabernet tendency. Feels slender on the attack yet doesn’t skimp on aromatics. On the palate it shows medium weight, playful extract with a pleasant touch of sweetness. The tannins feel resolved, so you can drink this wine with great pleasure today. Either pour straight from bottle to glass if you enjoy the fruit, or decant for three hours if you prefer slightly deeper notes. This is exactly how I like the “Claret style”! (18/20).