Château La Tour Carnet 2023

Toasty notes and red fruits on the nose; taut palate, clearly marked tannins from barrel ageing, drying finish.

88-90. Barrel Sample. This estate, just west of Saint-Julien and centered on a medieval castle, has produced an elegantly rich wine. With an aroma that has touches of spice and flavors of dark-black fruits, it is already poised between dense tannins and open black-currant fruits.

The usual opulent style of this estate, often driven by ripe Merlots – and this blend counts no less than three-quarters of that grape – escapes me in this more subdued outing in this vintage, with an almost steely aspect to the palate. The tannins are not hard, but they are not sumptuous, either. I do like some mid-palate juiciness, with a deft expression of plum and blackberry. Furthermore, ageing will soften the the structure. Tasted three times with similar results.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brighter on the rim. Fresh cherry fruit, hints of nougat and blackberries, tangerine zest, subtle wood spice. Medium body, red fruit, discreet tannins, good freshness, already accessible, a versatile food wine.

Opulent bouquet, dark precious wood, Brazilian tobacco and elderberry juice. On the taut palate, a tight-knit tannic corset, edgy vitality and a sinewy body. In the compact finish, plum skin, liquorice and a powdery astringency, rounded off.

The inky depths that you expect of a Magrez property are fully in play here. Intense, concentrated, good tannic structure, inky and powerful, this has depth and lift, and is full of Haut-Médoc character. 36hl/ha yields.