René Gabriel
76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 54 hl/ha. Deep purple‑garnet, dense core, lilac rim. Fresh, slightly minty blackberry and cassis bouquet—elegant, direct, and already remarkably expressive even as an en primeur sample. On the palate, super‑juicy, balanced, unusually elegant, with particularly lavish finesse; it builds on the palate and the tannin reserve is draped with plenty of rich flesh. A powerful Lynch‑Bages that stylistically links to the explosive 2000 or the denser 2005. Tasted three times. 15: Medium garnet, saturated center. Currently quite reductive yet compact; the very ripe fruit comes across sweet. The bouquet has very opulent contours and reflects the vintage’s general generosity. On the palate, extreme concentration with an almost Port‑like Cabernet sweetness in an extremely dense extract, yet with fresh aromatic streaks within. Its closed nature is a good omen and documents its enormous ageing potential. This will be the successor to the 2000. Most certainly. 20: Re‑tasted repeatedly in the meantime. Its longevity and greatness are also its handicap, as it has shut down and calls for rest. Perhaps very long decanting could be attempted. I have time and will wait patiently for its first maturity and then for its at least thirty‑year drinking window. (19/20). 20: Dark garnet‑purple with a dense core. Intense bouquet: licorice, cassis, walnut shells, cinnamon, red Peru Balm, and black peppercorns. The nose is concentrated and has evolved over the last two years exactly as one would wish for a Lynch nearing maturity. I followed the wine for about a quarter of an hour before the first sip. On the final nosing it stood—aromatically—with one leg almost in Napa Valley. On the palate it has gained in volume since our last encounters; the tannins still power along, though in a slightly toned‑down form. The flow sits between arrogant and graceful. It makes this quantum leap with ease. It’s the first time I clearly feel it has transformed into one of the very best wines of this highly popular Château. I now place it on the same century level as the 2000. The latter will take a more classic turn in the coming years. The 2009 Lynch tends rather to morph into a world‑class “addiction.” (20/20). 21: UNINHIBITED 2009!!! This Lynch‑Bages 2009 belongs in the “uninhibited” category. Or “shameless.” Once you smell it, the spell is cast! You devour this Pauillac bomb uncontrollably and greedily, almost reflexively. Surely it will gain further with additional bottle age. But there’s hardly much more it can offer—because it’s hard to imagine it getting any better! And I’m usually an incorrigible mature‑wine drinker. (20/20). 21: An insane double magnum at a wine evening at Restaurant Adelboden with Richie and René. A true 2009 juggernaut with all the bells and whistles. The nose opens its first window. On the palate it still grabs—understandably—quite firmly. I am now sure this will be/is a wine of the century. (20/20). 21: Incredibly youthful, extremely dark color, impenetrable core. The massive bouquet first shows lots of fine oak, nutty notes, hints of coffee, highly ripe fruit with prunes, stewed plums, and breakfast plums, complemented by sweet candied‑sugar notes. Power and finesse in the same second. On the palate, fleshy, balanced, astringent, muscular, delivering a phenomenal structure and ending with a powered finish. Long closed, it now gains with each new encounter. A guaranteed legendary Lynch on the long path to joining its earlier, famously great vintages. It hardly gets any better! (20/20).