Château Moulin de la Rose 2021

This is bright and zesty, showing notes of red berry fruit, oranges and chili peppers on the nose. Medium-bodied, bright and crunchy with fine tannins. Fresh, mineral finish. Approachable already, but best after 2024.

An extremely good-value St-Julien, retailing at just over €21 in France, one of a rare breed. It has real charm, with well-handled raspberry and redcurrant fruit, fresh but with flesh, and balance. You can find more finely finessed St-Juliens in this challenging vintage, but this has heart and juice. Still pretty high acidities that need to round out with ageing. 30% new oak for 20 months, 65% of overall production into the Grand Vin. They also sell a small amount of the production direct.

Fine and gently juicy, with a crushed-stone, graphite note at the mid-palate that brings savoury minerality to the fore alongside strawberry and red cherry. Feels well worked and I like the texture — fine but gently mouthfilling. Graceful and elegant, not too complex but easy to enjoy, with some confidence on show. Tasted twice.