Sarget de Gruaud Larose 2020

The tannins make their presence felt from the first moments, bringing both depth and spice but also a certain constriction. This is not a year for exuberant second wines in St-Julien – there are well-framed black fruits, some fresh St-Julien balance, but overall it’s a little sombre. 60% of overall production. Cabernet Franc 3% completes the blend. A yield of 31 hl/ha.

Tasted blind. Black core with a crimson rim. Perfumed with dark-red fruits and tea leaf. Dry, on the lighter side, and fades rather quickly. A bit lean – a shame because the aroma was lovely. (JH)

The 2020 Sarget de Gruaud Larose initially has an attractive bouquet with cassis and touches of violet. It's slightly herbal in style, and this becomes more pronounced with aeration, fraying at the seams. The palate is medium-bodied with decent concentration on the entry and fine backbone, if just missing a little focus on the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Kunz barrel sample 2021: floral, spicy, fresh bouquet, cassis, blackcurrants, tobacco, smoke. Firm, aromatic palate with fine sandy tannins, good dark fruit, muscular structure, powerful aromatics, bitter finish.

Floral, spicy, fresh bouquet, cassis, redcurrants, tobacco, smoke. Firm, aromatic palate with fine, powdery tannins, good dark fruit, muscular structure, powerful aromatics, bitter finish. 16/20 2025 - 2035

Touch of reduction on the first nose, opens to show precision and purity, with plenty of grip as it unrolls. Cassis, mint, soot and liquorice, with a ton of St Julien typicity, understated. 15% new oak, organic conversion as of 2019, with certification due in 2022 for the vineyard. Virginie Sallette winemaker, 31hl/ha yield.

The nose is fruity, fresh, and elegant, offering lovely definition, minerality, and bright, expressive fruit. It reveals notes of strawberry and pulpy redcurrant, combined with touches of cherry-strawberry/pulpy cherry, blackberry, as well as fine hints of violet, refined gravel, saffron, a discreet touch of cardamom, and bergamot. The palate is fruity and delivers minerality, good definition, indulgence, harmony, a lovely minerality, a juicy/tangy backbone, and appealing clarity/energy. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of pulpy/juicy blackberry and redcurrant, and, more slightly, violet, combined with touches of cherry, toastiness, chocolate, as well as subtle hints of nutmeg and fresh hazelnut. Good length.