Weingut Dönnhoff : Riesling Tonschiefer Trocken 2021

For a wine of this rather humble category, this is extremely mineral. In fact, if you are in doubt what that word means, then here’s the explanation. But there’s also wonderful white-peach fruit that provides a wonderful contrast to the wet-stone character and lemony acidity. Long, pristine finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

An initial delicate smoky stoniness drifts up from the glass like morning fog on the Nahe river. Apple and apricot with hints of freshly grated lime and lemon balm and wake-me-up-before-you-go-go acid. Nimble fruit expression, quiet grip and tremendous tension. Continued citrus zest on the long finish. (PS)