Château d'Issan 1995

An excellent d'Issan, with more noticeable tannin than the 1996, the 1995 possesses a deep ruby color, an excellent spicy, weedy, licorice, and black currant-scented nose, sweet fruit on the attack, and very good purity, ripeness, and overall balance. The wine is well-made and more backward than the 1996, even though I suspect the latter wine has more tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2014. This property appears to be on the rebound as the1995s and 1996s are the two finest back to back vintages I have ever tasted from d'Issan.

Very beautiful and classy aromas of crushed raspberries, violets and cream. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and lovely fruit. A little tannic still. Give it some more time.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.

Dark ruby. Mineral scents. Then on the palate it is all ripeness and not much subtlety – a bit like a good Puente Alto Cabernet from Chile. Serve chewy food with this. (JR)

The 1995 d'Issan is missing freshness on the nose and is rather outclassed by the d'Issan exactly ten years its senior. The palate is very solid, tannic and masculine and comes across as austere and mean towards the finish. It is a d’Issan that is far too serious and stoic, lacking the joie-de-vivre and ebullience of a great Margaux. Perhaps further decanting will benefit this wine and allow it to open? In a word – curmudgeonly. Tasted at the d’Issan vertical held at the property.

Fully mature, the wine has softened, filled out and while it is on the green leafy, herbal side, there is still enough, soft, earthy, red fruits to keep its charming character. However, there is not much gas left in the tank here, so drink up, if you have any of this in your cellar.

96: Dark garnet. A berry-driven, spicy bouquet with lovely depth. Firm, rich palate, fine and very concentrated extract, as always unfortunately a little metallic in structure. 15/20 2004–2015

Smoky nose, Merlot-dominant supple red fruits, sculpted floral aromatics, signature Margaux in feel. The tannins are totally melted but still offering structure, with fresh acidities running between them and breathing life into tobacco, leather, and mint leaf finish. Technical director Eric Pelong at this point, Jacques Boissenot consutant. This was two years after Blason d'Issan was introduced for the young vines, ensuring greater selection for the main estate wine, plus the renovation of the draining system in the Clos was beginning to make an impact. 40hl/h yield. Harvest September 14 to October 2, 35% new oak. This is excellent in bottle, but if you can find a magnum you'll be even better rewarded.

I tasted it twice recently and it was a nice surprise, despite a slightly animal nose. The palate is silky and full-bodied, with brightness on the palate and a very good, sappy finish. The rating is the same whether decanted or not.