Le Clos du Caillou : Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Quartz 2023

The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Quartz is another standout, bursting with aromas of peonies, lilac, dark cherries, fresh thyme and exotic spices. Medium- to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it offers a deeper, more powerful mid-palate than La Réserve, framed by velvety tannins that carry through to a long, penetrating and seemingly endless finish. A blend of 80% Grenache Noir and 20% Syrah, matured entirely in large and used barrels, this is the most mineral expression in the Vacheron cellar this year.

Fluid ripeness is nicely contrasted with a meaty, gutsy edge in this flattering version. Cherry and black plum are flecked with apple wood smoke, ganache and bacon lard. Salty, savory grip holds firm, fleshed out with red tea tannins that rein in the broad, plush finish. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2038. 1,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.

The Syrah component makes a bit difference here, bringing spice and black fruits. Good acidity, very fine tannins and quite voluminous, if not terribly concentrated. This has length and persistence, despite the fairly gentle concentration. A fresh and cleansing, well-balanced if quite compact style of Châteauneuf.

A vivid, focused and vibrant red with currants, grilled meat, dry earth and warm spices on the nose. It’s full-bodied with finely grained tannins. Driven, with a silky center palate, a gentle berry character and touches of spices and dried herbs in the intense finish. Drink or hold.

80% Grenache, 20% Syrah from a single plot of old vines in the lieu-dit Les Cassanets. Aged in demi-muids (80%) and old barriques (20%). Certified organic. Cask sample. Tasted blind. Brooding, intense and attractive nose with black fruits and liquorice. Mouth-coating richness and a beautiful wild core of spice, liquorice, damson fruit. Finely tuned tannins give structure here. Already very appealing and attractive yet will only improve over the coming decade. (AC)

Garrigue, smoke, licorice, herbs, cinnamon, and mineral-driven cherries create the core of the perfume. On the palate, the wine delivers lusciously-textured layers of sweet, red fruits, with elegance, and purity as their calling card. The wine is made using 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Drink from 2027-2039.