M. Chapoutier : La Mordorée 2004

The 2004 Cote Rotie La Mordoree is dark ruby/purple in 2004 with notes of cassis, melted licorice, incense, and pepper. The wine has good power, concentration, although not the intensity of the great vintages, but this is a strong effort for 2004. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Racy and pure, with a nice solid beam of red currant and plum fruit layered with grilled herb, red licorice and mineral notes. Tight and hard on the finish now, this should flesh out nicely with some cellaring. Best from 2008 through 2016. 340 cases made, 80 cases imported.

Dark red. Powerful, ripe cherry and blackcurrant aromas deepened by strong mineral and smoked meat tones. A rich, almost brooding style, resembling a wine from Hermitage, with chewy texture and deep, liqueur-like red and dark fruit flavors. Finishes ripe and very long, with powerful tannins.

Made from 70–80-year-old estate-grown vines, this boasts a tremendously complex and seductive bouquet of smoke, violets, raspberries and blackberries. In the mouth, it's a bit less exciting although still very good; it's juicy and fresh, with some firm tannins that are accentuated by crisp acidity. Give it a few years, then drink up before 2015.