Xavier Vignon : Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021

Quite pale in colour for a 2021. A little menthol and bay leaf to the black cherry fruit, which is discrete for now. Good weight and body on the palate, however, and firm acid. A distinctly savoury style that should work well at the dinner table and will age well on its acidity into the medium term.

75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Clairette. Vinified in stainless-steel tanks (50%), concrete tanks (25%) and tronconic vats (25%). Matured in stainless-steel tanks (50%), foudres (20%), demi-muids (5%), tronconic vats (5%) and terracotta pots (20%) for 12–16 months. Tank/cask sample. Tasted blind. Ripe, sweet fruits, leather and spice. Supple and sweet palate – clean and layered. Some herbal notes and a rich, opulent, sweet finish. (AC)

A blend of 75% Grenache, 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus 5% Clairette, Xavier Vignon's 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape is a super effort, only just surpassed by his Cuvée Anonyme. Scents of stewed strawberries, pomegranate and a hint of orange zest appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is round and ripe but ephemeral, gauzy in feel, with a long, lingering, zesty finish.