Bouchard Père & Fils : Beaune 1er cru "Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jésus" Domaine 2017

The 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus is showing well, wafting from the glass with aromas of smoky cherry and blackberry fruit that mingle with nuances of incense, spices and baking chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and supple, with a nicely concentrated core of sapid fruit, succulent acids and quite a long, harmonious finish. This has come together very nicely since I tasted it from barrel in early December.

Lush and juicy, this red delivers plum, black cherry, sweet spice and toasty oak flavors on a soft frame. Dense, showing fine balance and length. Drink now through 2030. 150 cases imported.

Bouchard Père’s historic 4ha parcel at the center of this excellent premier cru is the “filet mignon” of Grèves, according to Frédéric Weber. Owned by the négociant since 1791, this is an intense, aromatic, engagingly floral Pinot Noir with 15% whole clusters and 30% new wood, well supported by tannins and balancing acidity.

The 2017 Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus 1er Cru does not quite deliver the complexity I expected on the nose, and it needs more pedigree given the climat in question. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, quite ripe and generous on the finish; however, even it needs more precision and personality. Given my more positive score from barrel, I wonder if this is entering a dumb phase. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

It has gained a touch more textural smoothness; the tannin is a true caress—long, flavorful, almost infused—but the longevity of this terroir is deceptive: this ease, this poise will still be there in twenty years!

This tight wine is firm with tannins and still very young. With a backdrop of dense black fruits and acidity, its potential is considerable. With this promise and richness, the wine needs aging. Drink from 2024.