René Gabriel
WINE OF THE CENTURY: THE PICHON-LALANDE SENSATION!!! The positive yield of the 2014 vintage is not meager. There are indeed a few brilliant wines that reach 19 points. And quite a few truly great crus with scores of 17/20 and 18/20. But for a great vintage to be touted as truly great, you need a few wines of the century to make noise in the points forest and get the en primeur fully up and running. From this perspective, the outcome this year is respectable, but not exactly red-hot. In addition, customers have behaved rather lethargically in recent vintages and, at best, have bought only selectively. The only wines from the 2013 vintage that disappeared from the 2013 en primeur market within days were Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Pichon-Lalande! I first encountered this fabulous Pichon-Lalande 2014 in the first en primeur week. To be allowed to taste it, you need an appointment at the Château. It is presented only there. I was immediately thrilled and spontaneously gave it 19/20 points. At that time, it was about my tenth important reference in the Médoc. And over the following days, it remained my personal winner from the Left Bank. And I simply couldn’t get it out of my head. Then came that important Thursday in the second week for me. In the morning, I taste more than 200 Cru Bourgeois. At Ulysse Cazabonne, I fill in the last gaps of estates I hadn’t yet encountered. Or I readjust the most important wines to fix the final rating. In the afternoon, we then visit all the Premiers in Pauillac. All within less than 100 minutes. Before we humbly begged for entry at Château Latour, we once again spontaneously marched into Pichon-Lalande… The week before it had been very quiet and Nicolas had plenty of time to chat with us; now, at several tables, a true tasting rodeo was underway. We found a few empty seats and had another barrel sample of the 2014 poured. I had already learned the nose aromas by heart. So I took the entire tasting ration into my mouth and let it swirl around the whole oral cavity for as long as possible. Now there was no question for me. This is the absolute best wine of the 2014 vintage. And—I’m sure of it now—this is a wine of the century! It was an almost sensual delight to be able to taste this highly refined yet full-bodied wine. Yes, to be able to! It was a privilege for me to taste such a great, legendary wine at such an extremely early stage. And I will keep following it. And also (hopefully) be able to keep following it in its further development. And then also when it’s in bottle. Because I will certainly buy a few different wines from the 2014 vintage. And for this fabulous, sensational Pichon-Lalande, I will pull every string to buy a few cases. I’m budgeting a purchase index of a maximum of 100 CHF/EURO. That would be another sensation… 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot. Extremely dark purple with lilac and violet highlights. The bouquet is mind-blowing. There are many ripe, dark plums, cassis, black currant, licorice, black pepper, black olives, and pumpernickel bread. The nose shows incredible depth, absolutely royal and elevated. I followed it on the nose for about five minutes before taking the first sip. On the palate, full harmony, ample, creamy, velvety, with a concentrated, extremely long, and powerfully pressing finish. So there are two pieces of good news. First, this is once again a sensational Pichon-Lalande (like its 2013!). And second; this time there’s quite a lot of it. Nicolas Glumineau speaks of an almost normal harvest. Anyone who skips en primeur this year will miss the chance at a true successor to the legendary 1982! 21: The youngest wine of the evening, and its color presented accordingly: violet-black. Peppery bouquet, almost exclusively black-berried, tightly structured and showing remarkable depth. The more air it gets, the more the nose shifts toward cassis. On the palate, firm, still astringent, but showing ripe tannins, incredible finish. Still far from its drinking window, but on track to deliver immense pleasure for the first time in about 10 years. Market value is under 130 francs. Ready. Set. Buy!!! (20/20).